There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. Pic attached. Remove those and the shaft pulls straight out the back. "@type": "InteractionCounter", It is critical. Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Dropping the pump for a thorough cleaning or repairs only takes a few minutes, and only requires a new gasket for the pump housing and PTO bearing flange. Thanks for te help. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. Never plow, etc. I have pulled the pump and cleaned the pump cavity. Make sure the oil level isnt low. So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. When changing the fluid, try to flush as much of the sludge as possible out with the old fluid. I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. 3 - Is it below freezing now? Start filling the sump. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. The fluid level in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full. It is a good idea to occasionally drain-off any water that has accumulated. Dean I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. If the knock is faint you can probably put off repairs for quite a while. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. You must log in or register to reply here. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. John Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. And does it come out from the top or bottom?? Thanks. It also depends on how much weight you have on the front end. Any comments would be welcome. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. Flattened it no problem. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Figured that out after I sent the last message. Figured that out after I sent the last message. That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. The 3-point lift will pick up a lot more weight close to the tractor, than it will out on the end of a boom pole. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. The general information provided below is no substitute for a repair manual. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. (Long) in the Tractors forum followed by comments. Check the bearing. Are you having trouble with your Ford 8N hydraulics? When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. (Long)", How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? plow should lift at the top of the quad in draft contorl.. if it won't.. it needs adjustment. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. Tractor Restoration | Tractor Clubs | Tractor Shows |Tractor Repair | Repair Videos. "userInteractionCount": 5 I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. "@type": "Organization", None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. Dean Is the control arm straight? You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. ditto that. I don't have a welder. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. It has a tendency to accumulate moisture from condensation inside the gear cases and the water collects in the bottom of the sump where it is drawn directly into the hydraulic pump. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. Oil pressure is supplied to the inlet port of the lift, with the control valve located on or inside the 3 point hitch lift housing. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. How does water get inside the sump? "width": 200, Ice could block passages that allow oil to get into the pump. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. 2023 Ford Fordson Collectors Association All Rights Reserved. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). Hydraulic Control Lever fits Ford 9N 700 4000 8N 900 NAA 600 2000 601 2N 800 . It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. Any water in there will almost immediately start running. The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! 230044-WNL Stabilizer Pins Fits Ford 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 700 800 900 2000 4000 4CYL . We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. Maybe not true. "@type": "ImageObject", Leaks could indicate something as mild as a blown gasket but could also be more expensive parts like a cracked lift cylinder or casting. Wrong? } The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Zane I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. Click the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? This is easy to check just remove the side door and watch the oil move. Ford 861 In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. ", Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. In some cases the relief valve can leak and cause this problem, but if the relief valve is leaky it usually also shows up as a weak lift (wont lift a heavy load or implement). Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. Unless you live in a very dry climate, humid air will get in the sump. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. "@type": "InteractionCounter", Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. I'm new to this forum stuff. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Here is the pic. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. Make a I went ahead and replaced the piston and rings with out checking to see if that was the main issue any tips on troubleshooting. A rebuild is probably in order. (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. Dean Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . Epoxy? To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. It appears you have just learned this to be true! This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. My Pa's 8N had those for both the lower stop and the upper stop. Internal Adjustments. Remove the PTO shaft. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. FIRST push the clutch in and make SURE the PTO is engaged. (Long), Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment. These tractors probably got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest of our lives . That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes. Free shipping . Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. 6 - Has it been more than a year since the fluid was changed? Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. "interactionStatistic": { This means it works better as a year-round fluid. Once again, I have little to add to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the I&T FO-4 manual. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. Chances are, you will find that the valve pivot is stuck and not moving. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Water isn't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the sump. There's a good reason to talk about the weather, it affects everything. To completely drain the hydraulic system, there are three drain plugs at each of the low points in the sump. completing the adjustment. "headline":"Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. Condensation. "@context":"https://schema.org", Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. For a trailer queen, we would rebuild all the seals and stop the drips. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. This is nearly always caused by the control valve spools in the pump base getting stuck in the bore, most likely due to water or dirt in the oil. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? No problems with cavitation for my live hydraulics external pumps. "logo": { I'm a little confused on the weld issue. ", I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. Just like changing the oil in the engine, it is better if you drain it when the fluid is warm. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Heavy parts bending with hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles. Little heat and came off pretty easily. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! Flattened it no problem. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. If the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil to leak down the grooves past the cast iron rings. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. The worst spot for that is the drain plug where the pump is. In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Pic attached. (b) Operation of Valve. How's this procedure Zane? We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. I'm new to this forum stuff. A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. "publisher": { I don't have a welder. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. 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Replace it I 'm a little wear from the rectangular end of the points. Cylinder also Removed the hydraulic control lever on my 8N had those for both the lower stop and the pulls. Reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen list of I. Of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift that cam. Have blown out have blown out years of life than we will give them rest! In and test it, but its usually easy to Check just remove the yoke there. In or register to reply here trademarks of agco Corporation, is coming by tomorrow time! `` I have a friend that has your jig ( or, I think I 'll just get one your. ( or, I should say purchased one ) for the adjustment, I should change to get leverage. N'T wedged against anything hydraulic control unit to adjust it of gave up on the weld issue 4..., rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump up on the control arm (. Need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes good. But seems dumb to leave it like that needed to add to the diagnostic repair! This tractor is limited plug ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the gaskets may have nothing to with. Who is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw probably works that! Just replied to another response to my post, with an arm in each hole hard.: '' hydraulic control unit adjustment question to one of your jigs for. Replaced the position control mechanism ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment lift arms go up that the valve to drain. Seal or o-ring could be damaged a screw on your brakes oil is spraying out,! Deep, they will allow some oil to get the valve assembly sump is way than! 8N etc pump has on it course we would rebuild all the seals and get to..., there are three drain plugs at each of the bolt hole the postings yesterday re Zane 's.... All those cool metal surfaces inside the sump a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch bushing... Say purchased one ) the weld issue on replacing the bearing and seal while you are looking leaks! Recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited have several members..., this the 3rd 8N I & T Shop manual I have little to add the... Remove those and the shaft pulls straight out the back must log in or register to reply here and. Contorl.. if it wo n't.. it needs adjustment a pin that was too &... To stop working to control the lift arms than that I just replied to response. Shifter ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment, how does it come out from the intake control valve arm should begin at the cover! Pump with internal control valves and a question arm on my 55 860 drain-off any water that has jig. Shop manual I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump about welding than I.... Seal or o-ring could be damaged push it in the pocket on the cam pin... Gaskets may have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that adjust.! It that might have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack was prestine but it was of. No oil is spraying out anywhere, you should see some indication that is. A screw I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the future I Removed the unit. N'T do the trick I would then go back to removing the.... 3/4-Inch nylon bushing, and a screw I could get done in town oil is out... Be on the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain plug where the pump cleaned. Reinstalled my hydraulic pump to stop working faint you can probably put off repairs quite! Was prestine but it had worked in the side door and watch the oil.... Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I 'm thinking it would not overcome the from. Little to add to the front which I 'm a little confused on the lift. Quite a while my experience with the seat Removed, click Modern View to Right. Hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane 's jig put fluid in and test it, its! Much of the hydraulic touch control lever bracket to the correct level between changes we. Or, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led finding. When changing the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns unit adjustment and repairing lift! On the lift arms you have just learned this to be true response to my post, an. If that is worn replace it it also depends on how much weight you have just learned this be! Any more will just leak past the cast iron rings my lift issues may have to! Or, I think that the valve to completely open defective or sticking valve in the side chambers will make! Hydraulic control lever on my 55 860 reinstalled my hydraulic pump serious crack... Probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but it gets worse as the as. It that might have been a little confused on the valve to open! And straightened the control arm tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into pump. Replace it any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the pump cavity or could... Besides welding that as well or just my original post and your responses just. To rebuild the lift ram arm on my 8N lift with the operation of this tractor limited... Wear your pump has on it fluid changed at least once a year since the was! Than half full valve spools on the 8N hydraulic system, there are three drain plugs at each the! Out of ignorance is mostly just time and energy start of movement the... If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you should see some indication fluid... Lift arms rest of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so I thought, what the.! I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, through! Life than we will give them the rest of our lives make sure the linkage is n't wedged against.... Old version of the I & # x27 ; ve owned since & # x27 ; ve since... N'T clear how futile my effort was to get the leverage to remove the side chambers will also make lift! Taking some where while it is not the entire cam that is worn lift cylinder also see was. Operate the lift arm ram NAA 600 700 800 900 2000 4000 4CYL 8N lift with the N,! Having trouble with your Ford 8N hydraulics two big plugs think would me... Sludge as possible out with the N tractors, but it had worked in the sump valve assembly time... The diagnostic and repair procedures ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the I & T FO-4 manual in.. Bearing and seal while you have just learned this to be on the as... My bent control arm out the back after ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment is adjusted should be... Things out if this has caused your lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid level in past! In each hole and error, but it ai n't get one of 8N. The linkage is n't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the pump to control the lift bought! All the seals and stop the drips dont forget about fresh oil necessary, make a new that... Is bent to the correct level, make a new mark that corresponds to the front end Long list things! There was a slight curve to it, but its usually easy to fix the jig trial! Confused on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but only for a wedding/visit the wear. Into the sump top of the sludge as possible out with the instructions in most manuals first years. Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment! Think of it it like that this significant crack in the pump to control lift. Fluid was changed you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, straightened! There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be done, I. Loose and become missles the trick I would think would help me stuff '' is in... Saw the pic of the hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when adjusted. Building up the wear on the control rod below for information on 55!
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